I arrived on a partly cloudy Saturday in Manhattan. A wintry mix of tiny snowflakes and rain swirled in the air at various times during the day. I caught a taxi from my hotel at 6:45pm and silently hoped that I would arrive on time. I soon discovered the taxi driver had no idea where the building was located as he slid down the dimly lit one way street and yelled out, '157, right?'. When I corrected him he attempted to back up, angering the drivers now queuing behind him. I slipped out of the taxi and onto the partially cleared walkway and trudged down the sidewalk in search of the James Beard House.
There is a brass sign outside the James Beard House (JBH) that alerted me that I was at the right place. I opened the door and joined the line of diners waiting to check the coats and other belongings. I had read on Open Table and the JBF website that business or cocktail attire was recommended. I opted for a red jacket and black pants and wore dangling earrings - not too dressy, but not casual. It turns out diner attire ranged from casual to business attire.
After checking in I directed to the next room for the reception On my way to the reception area I passed through the kitchen. I glanced to my right and noticed the staff bustling about and various hors d'oeuvres were on resting on trays. A voice said, 'How are you this evening?' I looked up and Chef Karangis was speaking to me. I smiled nervously and replied, 'I'm fine'. I continued on to the reception room buzzing with the chatter of fellow diners and a glass of champagne was awaiting my arrival.
Hors d’Oeuvres (beverage pairing listed in bold italic).
- Tuna Tapenade on Lemon Sourdough Toasts
- Sunchoke Soup with Clementines and Piment d’Espelette
- Crispy Pork Belly with Brussels Sprout–Apple Slaw
- Sea Urchin Custard with Lobster and Caviar
- Foie Gras Macarons with Figs and Almonds
- Champagne Charles de Cazanove Brut NV
The JBH staff twisted through the crowded reception room offering hors d'oeuvres to diners. I enjoyed the tuna tapenade, sunchoke soup, and crispy pork belly. I liked the citrtusy element of the sea urchin custard and how it complemented th'e caviar and lobster. I also liked the concept of the foie gras and macaron, but the sweetness of the macaron overwhelmed the foie gras. After 40 minutes of sipping champagne, chatting and tasting hors d'oeuvres we were ushered upstairs to the dining tables.
I chatted with six people while trying hors d'oeuvres - two ladies from this group were assigned to the same table as me. Also assigned to the table was the house photographer. In these types of settings I like to ask if it's okay to take photos. Some restaurants discourage the use of flash photography (e.g. Little Serow) and others request no photos at all. The photographer's reply ('no') led to additional inquiries from the ladies seated near me - why? what about photos without flash? The photographer attempted to answer the questions and then she scooped up her camera and began circulating the room.
A member of the JBH staff welcomed the diners, gave a brief history of the house outlined the agenda for the evening: dinner, introduction of chefs and their staff, and conclusion.
Dinner
Each entrée was carefully paired with a wine (wine pairings listed in bold italic).
Each entrée was carefully paired with a wine (wine pairings listed in bold italic).
- Winter Squash Salad with Burrata, Pecans, and Pickled Cranberries
- Volpe Pasini Friulano 2012
- Sea Scallops with Salsify, Kumquats, and Black Truffles
- Louis Michel Chablis 2011
- Sweet Potato Agnolotti with Duck Confit and Mustard Greens
- Au Bon Climat Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir 2012
- Lamb Loin with Puntarella, Carrots, and Turnips
- Chateau Maris La Touge Minervois La Livinière Cru Classé 2010
- Goat Cheese Flan with Apple–Celery Sorbet, Peanut Praline, and Candied Olives
- Quady Winery Essensia Orange Muscat 2012
- Petits Fours
The winter squash salad was visually appealing and tasty. The pickled cranberries were a colorful accompaniment and surprising flavor element with the buratta. The Friulano was light and soft -perfect for this salad.
The sea scallops were savory, but very plain in appearance. The Chablis paired with the scallops was a very pleasant surprise. I would serve this Chablis at home.
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| Sea scallops with salsify, kumquats and black truffles |
The sweet potato agnolotii was delicious . The duck was tender and well seasoned, the mustard greens were pureed and surprisingly sweet tasting. The selected pinot noir was not too dry and enhanced the ingredients of the dish.
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| Sweet potato agnolottii with duck confit and mustard greens |
The lamb loin was bias sliced and very tender. I liked the combination of puntarella (chicory), carrots, and turnips - a nuanced balance of bitter and sweet. The Cru Classe was so good several fellow diners as for more - this complex wine softened the bitterness of the puntarella and turnips and was enhanced the lamb.
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| Lamb loin with puntarella, carrots and turnips |
The goat cheese flan was a satisfying, savory dessert. The apple celery sorbet was refreshing and not too sweet- it reminded of fresh apple celery juice. A thin wafer of pureed celery garnished the dessert. The combined ingredients reminded me of eating celery sticks with cream cheese or peanut butter and apple slices a tangy cheese or peanut butter. I'd never had candied olives before, but like olives in general. The olive presence in this dessert underscored the savory aspect of this dessert. The muscat pairing was good - I generally prefer drier wines, but this muscat was not too sweet and brought forward the apple elements in the dessert.
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| Goat cheese flan |
Coffee or tea was offered with the petits fours. I tried the dark chocolate square and a sugar coated fruit cube. I was too full to try a third petit four. The dark chocolate square was filled with a smooth, creamy milk chocolate. The fruit(s) used in the dark purple sugar coated cube was a mystery to diners at my table. I offered that perhaps concord grape was used, but recognized there was something else present. Was there a touch of lemon? Was fig used?
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| Petits fours |
The chefs and their staff entered the dining room. After a short introduction of the chefs and a thank you from the JBH staff member the chefs spoke and then fielded questions from the diners. I asked Chef Keehner about the petit fours and disclosed that there was debate at the table about the fruit featured in the paste. This comment piqued the chef's curiosity. Mystery solved: the fruits were black and red currants with a touch a lemon juice.
After dinner Chef Keehner stopped by the table and shared his perspective about the goat cheese flan dessert. He stated that he wanted a savory dessert and that the elements reminded him of when he was a child.
On the way to retrieve my coat I took note that the staff was watching me and nodded in recognition of their presence. It dawned on me that in a space of approximately 80 diners there were about 40% women, and only three women of color. There were no men of color dining that evening, but several supporting the dinner as servers and other roles. I was the only woman of color to pose a question.
Dining at the James Beard House was a great experience. I had an enjoyable evening with people who loved food and enjoyed talking about food. I hope to visit again.
Dining at the James Beard House was a great experience. I had an enjoyable evening with people who loved food and enjoyed talking about food. I hope to visit again.
