02 June 2014

Little Serow - perfect timing

Months ago a pal told me of a Thai restaurant that didn't take reservations and people stood in line to get a seat. The pal also mentioned the menu was pre-determined and prix fixe. My first thought was this might be fun to do in the spring, summer or perhaps fall but not in the dead of winter. However, on a warmer than usual Saturday in December I plotted to visit Little Serow.

I read that the doors opened at 5:30 pm and determined that arriving around 4:30 pm would be sufficiently early to stand in line - arriving earlier my look too 'desperate'. I took metro and walked the short distance from Dupont Circle metro as I neared 17th Street at 440pm I saw the  queue of people already in line. So much for arriving 'early'.

As I stood in line reading my newspaper passersby asked who we were waiting for. When  they discovered it was not 'who', but a restaurant- some asked follow up questions about the name of the restaurant and the type of cuisine, making a note to return. Others shook their heads in disbelief. 

As time passed the behavior of those in line became more noticeable. A family of four behind me was very concerned about not getting setting when the doors opened. The mother sent her children out to count the number of people in line and at one point asked her children to talk to people closer to the door about letting them move up in line because they had plans later in the evening and must be seated  be seated when the doors opened. The two guys standing in line directly behind me spoke loudly about their previous failed  attempts to eat at Little Serow when the doors opened and discussed at length what the backup plan would be if they didn't cross Little Serow's doorway this evening.

The doors opened. The line began to slow move into the restaurant. I walked down the short steps and through the doorway. The two guys in line behind eagerly pushed their way into the doorway behind me. The receptionist explained the dining concept to  me (family style dining) and asked if I had any questions or food allergies. When I stated I didn't I was ushered to a seat at the communal bar. One left seat remained open as I sat down. Alas, the two guys standing behind me in line would not be dining at Little Serow this evening.

Alice was my primary server. I listened as handed me a card with the list of menu items for the evening and explained that the dishes would be served family style and that many of the dishes would be spic. When I told her I wanted to pair  a different beverage with each dishs she smiled conspiratorially at me. Let the fun begin!

On  the menu that evening:
nam prik pao
tom kha pla muk
som tum o
laapla chorn
pow hu thouk
phat pakaukeo
si krong muu
When the nam prik pao arrived I immediately thought of pork crackling. Alice encouraged me to dip the crispy pork into a red colored paste that accompanied the dish. What a combination! The paste was spicy and sweet because of its primary ingredients: khinu chiles, palm sugar and shrimp paste. I sipped on my glass of prosecco  savored the flavor. Another single diner sat down at the seat next to me and began ordering. He told me Little Serow had reduced the price of its multi course meal and had also reduced the size of its portions. He also explained to me  that he preferred coming to Little Serow alone because he didn't like sharing his food.

The tom kha pla muk was delivered  as I was finishing the nam prik pao.  The soup was spicy, flavorful and full of galangal - perfect for a cool winter day. The menu listed krachai, galangal and dried squid as the primary ingredients in this dish.  Alice recommended a Resiling that has a  nice vanilla nose, with a soft finish. 

The sum tum o was a delicious combination of lime leaf, salted prawn and pomelo that complemented each other. I was still sipping on the Reisling. 


tom kha pla muk, som tum o

I looked at the menu twice as I read that laap pla chorn o featured snakehead fish. Yes, that snakehead fish that local environmentalists noted  had few predators and was attacking fish local to the area. The server reassured me that  Little Serow  was doing its part to support the environment. The fish was firm in texture and absorbed the lanna spices in the dish. I stared at the dish in disbelief. If I hadn't read that I was eating fish I wasn't sure if I would have identified it as such.

laap pla chorn
The tow hu thouk was a refreshing palate cleansing course after consuming the snakehead fish. The tofu, cilantro root and peanut were light and crisp. Alice paired this dish with cider from Normandie


tow hu thouk
Another server excitedly slid the phat pakukeo in front of me. It was clear that this was one of her favorite dishes, but I asked just the same. She confirmed that it was and suggested that I cut the egg and allow the yolk to mix with the salted fish and greens. The dish was visually appealing when intact. The running yolk was a bit too much for me, but the dish was tasty. The cider paired well with this dish as well.
phat pakaukeo

 

The final course was si krong muu: pork ribs, mekhong whiskey and dill. The pork was tender, moist, slightly sweet the red onion slices add a bit of tanginess to the dish. Alice recommended an Italian herbed vermouth with this dish. It worked!


sri krong muu
As quickly as the service began, the team moved swiftly to clear plates and settle checks so the next
group of diners could be ushered in.

The bathroom is clean and maintained. I caution diners wilth small children that the restaurant might be a better choice for a date night versus family night. 

The closest metro stop is Dupont Circle. Metered onue street parking is available. There are parking lots nearby. Yes, people do stand in line for the first dinner seating and they do get in.  Reservations are not accepted. The weekly menu is posted on Little Serow's website.

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